Burma Pilgrimage #2, Day 3: The Generosity of Sayadaws

The following excerpt was written by an American yogi about the pilgrimage in Burma. The first pilgrimage has ended, and the second one has just begun! To read about the previous day, go here. To read about this very same day on the previous yatra, see here! You can also consider joining a later pilgrimage in Burma yourself.

"Along the way to Metta Shin monastery, our resting place for the next two nights, we stopped to pay respects to two Sayadaws along the way.

The first was Hansar Waddy, a monastery in Saya Thet Gyi's tradition. After a group sit, the Sayadaw extended a warm welcome and shared a few pearls to abide by:
the importance of right mind, having right friends, and listening to the Dhamma. After accepting our offerings, his volunteers, who had already amassed a
huge array of snacks, served this to us with such metta. We stayed a good while, and the Sayadaw beamed at us the whole time - metta has no language
barriers.

The next stop was Aung Zabu, a monastery where a Japanese businessman had donated his private collection of hundreds of Buddha statues. Although it was not a day for public viewing, we were able to go in and meet the Sayadaw. His warm welcome was followed by an extortion to keep on spreading the Dhamma. We were given permission to not only view, but also photograph the rare collection. The statues were beautiful - physical manifestations of the devotion of so many. May many more find inspiration from this collection.

The generosity of these Sayadaws, to a group of unknown meditators (even when not from their tradition) is touching. The unhurried amount of time they take, the genuine joy and warmth in their time with us, and their small Dhamma talks makes each of these encounters special. Words of teaching, simple as
they may be, when given in this atmosphere, fall onto fertile soil..."

Click here for Day 4!

Burma Yatra #2, Day 2: Saya Thet Gyi Day

The scenes of the rural Dalla harbor just after the group has arrived, crossing the same river as Sayagyi U Ba Khin did many years ago. The buildings of Yangon are visible from across the water.

The following excerpt was written by an American yogi about the pilgrimage in Burma. The first pilgrimage has ended, and the second one has just begun! (To see and compare Day #2 of the first yatra, see here. 

You can also consider joining a later pilgrimage in Burma yourself.

"Today was great grandfather day. After a morning group sit at Dhamma Joti, we headed across the river to see several sights related to Saya Thet Gyi.

Getting a group of us tickets, boarded, and disembarked is no easy feat. It says volumes about the organizers that this was all taken care of, mostly behind the scenes. Once we arrived at the other side, a small bus was arranged to continue the journey. 

The group arrives in Dalla

Once we left the ferry terminal, the landscape and feel changed dramatically. Against a mostly flat, stark landscape there were small clusters of trees, with an occasional thatched home nearby.

A typical scene that the group sees from its ride from Dalla to Pyaw Bwe Gyi. Saya Thet Gyi's family was once responsible for 1,000 acres of rice fields, and one still finds such agricultural activity in the area today.

Time seems to have forgotten this small village. Dusty roads and rice mills line the path to the salas, perhaps not dissimilar to what Sayagi U Ba Khin, and perhaps Saya Thet Gyi, might have seen in their days.

The first stop was to the Saya Thet Gyi's first meditation sala. After hearing about Saya Thet Gyi's story (especially moving when one sees the joy and pride radiating from Snow's face in the recounting of this familiar tale...), we sat for an hour in the spot where it is believed that Saya Thet Gyi reached some of his attainments. Very strong...

A dog pauses in the walkway leading to Saya Thet Gyi's center

The group then moved to the second sala. There were beautiful paintings on the walls that, as with the rest of the building, had seen some better days. The last place we went to was Anauk Monastery, a monastery where Saya Thet Gyi taught from for a brief period of time. 

The greeting party at Anauk Monastery, a site where Saya Thet Gyi taught for two years

This side of the river appears materially poorer that their city cousins. It's in such a setting that one can appreciate the physical manifestations of the people's monastic devotion. Compared to the first two places, the last (a monastic setting) appeared much better kept. Even the dogs looked healthier!

The bus parks in a field outside Anauk Monastery, the field looking similar to what one may have found even in Saya Thet Gyi's time. The lay meditation master himself preferred this site for its quiet and distance from the main town area.

As an aside - it looks remarkably challenging to lead these groups. These yatras have been compared to long courses. If so, the group leader is akin to course manager, except they have to oversee a bunch of independent minded, talking students, who wander at their own pace... The balance between letting each individual's 'course' unfold and making sure the group stays on schedule is difficult, and the effort in just getting everyone to show up and/or leave by a certain time is tremendous...

Aside #2: There's a sense of a protective bubble around us, woven by all those involved in our care. The support from them is palpable. The motocoach assistant, for example, has walked into Yangon traffic (no small feat in any Asian country!) to herd us through. How fortunate we are!"

See here for Day 3!

The Writings of Masters

Mother Sayama and S.N. Goenka, both students of the meditation master Sayagyi U Ba Khin, had great reverence for their "dhamma grandfather," Saya Thet Gyi, who taught meditation to U Ba Khin. Saya Thet Gyi's center, which dates back to the early 20th century, keeps comprehensive guidebooks of all yogis who have come to meditate here, and many yogis enjoy searching through to find their dhamma friends from their home communities. Recently the following priceless jewels have been unearthed:

S.N. Goenka, from January 13 2000, wrote his entry in English and signed using Burmese characters to spell "Goenka"

This is Mother Sayama's entry

A photo album is also kept at the center, and one shows many dozens of photos from S.N. Goenka's visit.

Thoughts about Pilgrimage Visits to IMC and Pyaw Bwe Gyi

The following excerpt was written by Branden Macie about the pilgrimage in Burma, and describes scenes from Day #2 and Day #3. Another American yogi also wrote briefly about the second day. For current pilgrimage offerings, see here.

"Paying respects to and meditating at Sayagyi U Ba Khin's IMC personal cell for a few minutes, a cool dissolution of metta engulfed me, the entirety of U Ba Khin's life and Dhamma efforts washed over me and the vivid words of Goenkaji about U Ba Khin's metta instantly were realized. At once, my mind was fashionable and I cast it in the purest direction knowable, toward the limitless merits of this life and this journey with the whole of conditioned existence with formed/conditioned phenomena, from fine forms to solidified, bound forms. Truly it was easy to pray through the dissolved rupa and nama which that single place affirmed. 

I bowed deeply taking refuge in the Buddhas, Dhammas, and Sanghas of past, present and future. Truly, I pray the streams lightness-- of metta, reach all beings in that location, be known to all, and fill this arupa, rupa, and kama lokas of samsara. The streams of light metta atoms known to my mind was easily fixable, directable. And I cast it in a direction which, surely, Sayagyi would encourage-- towards sharing the merits.

A feather floated lightly through the wind at Saya Thet Gyi Center. It landed on the hard solidified concrete ground. My mind was directed towards subtle/soft realities and to gross/impermeable realities. Then, naturally the awareness of the space enabling soft and hard realities to exist arose in me. Such were the vibrations of our Anagami great grandfather's center: light, heavy, and containing."

A Kiwi Monk at Webu Monastery in Ingyinbin

During the recently completed Burma pilgrimage, New Zealander Russell Quinn made the decision to ordain for 10 days at Webu Monastery in Ingyinbin, ordaining in the very Sima Hall as Webu himself once did, and becoming only the second foreigner to ever ordain there. An initial seed for this decision was planted after watching the documentary, "Webu Sayadaw: Anthology of a Noble One" and seeing the welcoming presence of U Mandala. After Russell was given the Pali name U Sassana, his shaven hair was then put under the very same Bodhi tree where Webu Sayadaw placed Sayagyi U Ba Khin's hairs when he ordained in 1965. Now back in New Zealand, Russell has shared his experiences with the yatra group, and gave permission to post his words to provide inspiration with the wider world. A series of journal entries from this yatra are also available, most having been written by Kory Goldberg, and excerpts from the second yatra (currently in progress) begin here. Kory also wrote about the experience of Russell's own ordination and his own impressions at the time that it happened in January 2014.

For current pilgrimage offerings, see here.

"Minggulabah,

Just arrived back in New Zealand from the Dhamma Land: here is a short summary of my time as U Sassana and the remainder of the trip.

Once your bus had left, I felt very fortunate and joyful with the realization that I now had this wonderful opportunity to meditate in such an environment as a monk for 10 days. Amazing! How did this happen?

Once I locked into the 10 Day course routine it really didn't feel that different living as a monk than it does when one renounces for a course. Had I ordained for a longer period or even for life this no doubt would have been different. Although being in noble silence, with eyes downcast and with the attention focused inside, I did observe to some degree the community of monks at Ingynbin, to see just how they acted and lived. It seems as though they had individual practices and routines. I am very grateful for the introduction that U Agga gave me but felt a little frustrated by my lack of knowledge. In hindsight some prior inquiry would have been wise.

I sat with Sayadaw U Ku Tah La each morning for breakfast at Patipatti and he was obviously very keen to talk, but with our lack of a common language, conversation didn't go past learning the Burmese names for the different dishes. I would have liked to have talked to him about the vinaya and what the monks practice, if the discourses that often played where by Webu Saydaw and what it was that some monks were chanting etc. 

The one outstanding difference I felt was that of increased mindfulness and that more worldly thoughts subsided. After disrobing I felt less protected from the influences of mara. While being whisked out of Mandalay in the air conditioned shuttle to the airport, with thoughts surfacing about heading back to New Zealand, I saw a monk on alms round and that seemed to be clearly the more wise choice. The seed has been planted now: who knows if it will be given water in the future.

On day 7 I got sick. Uh-oh! This is what I didn't want to happen. I was resting, observing the sensation of nausea, when two novices who had been serving me very attentively at lunch time at Pariyatti, appeared to check on me - as I hadn't gone to lunch. They came back that evening with some "Buddha medicine" (two types of honey, one very dark strong one and a light clear one), energy drink and bottled water. The next day there was an improvement so I went for lunch and they had prepared some more "Buddha medicine". This time it was a soup - chicken I think - and some bread and other more plain food. That evening they arrived again at the kuti with more of the honey and drinks. I was very touched by their concern and care. Truly heeding the Buddha's teaching about caring for the sanga. 

One of the novice's, Nimon who is 17, is going to be sponsored by one of the Thai women next year to attend a special university for Buddhist studies in Chaing Mai. As Alex said "I think he will be quite an exceptional monk".

Ingynbin is certainly a strong place to meditate and I felt very much at home there, however, thanks to the advent of the megaphone, at times it was a case of meditating on the arising and passing of sounds. At one time there were three at once from three sides and not always carrying Dhamma messages. We tend to get used to our usually quiet meditation centres........ annica. The Dhamma hall was looking pretty good with it's new paint and there were a few well to do visitors, so perhaps the support for the monastery is on the rise. I have just heard that two NZ friends were there last year too.

The mud building at Pariyatti was finished up to roof level with lovely 3D sculptural images of flowers and Burmese lettering on the walls. It will be a great little guest room when finished. U Mandala escorted myself and the Thai group to Mandalay where he spent the day showing them some sites with U Vassa, while I went to Sagiang, thanks to the help from Ma Khaing and for the recommendation from U Agga, to a very beautiful and tranquil monastery for 3 1/2 days. The Sayadaw is a very kind and gentle person and although I was once again frustrated with the lack of a common language, he kindly showed me some of the special sites nearby, including the monastery where the yatra group stayed and the one where you did your one day sitting. I occasionally have the pang of regret at not staying with the group but do think that my solo experience was what was required for my journey.

Back in Mandalay I meditated for some time again at Maha Muni, which being a Sunday was thriving with people and there was even a group of students enthusiastically cleaning floors, walls and everything. On one side of me there was a monk reciting and on the other side someone else chanting and there were of course pigeons and other noises galore but in spite all of these potential distractions, the Dhamma vibration was strongest, which in a way sums up my overall impression of Burma. Two feelings that were almost constantly there throughout this journey and are there now are gratitude and compassion.

Deep gratitude to all those past and present who have continued the teaching and spread of Buddha Dhamma.

May all those who helped to make this and future pilgrimages to Dhamma lands possible gain plentiful merits.

With much metta,

Russell"

Burma Yatra #2, Day 1

The following excerpt was written by an American yogi about the pilgrimage in Burma. The first pilgrimage has ended, and the second one has just begun! (To see and compare Day #2 of the first yatra, see here, and to another account of the IMC and Saya Thet Gyi visits, see here) You can also consider joining a later pilgrimage in Burma yourself.

Shwedagon Pagoda as seen from the pilgrims' Yuzana Hotel

"I wasn't planning on writing unless inspiration struck. Based on how things unfolded today, it may strike more often than not...

Pardon any inaccuracies...

There's a corner of Shwedagon where depending on which tile you step on, the diamond on top of the main pagoda shimmers a different color. At the right place, at the right time, the unexpected materializes... So it was with day one of the yatra.

The morning found us barefoot walking from the motorcoach into Shwedagon. For those of us unaccustomed to walking on gravel (stained with local flavors, nonetheless), it was a great opportunity to practice with changing unpleasant sensations. It was especially sweet to remember that this is how (as Harold Fielding put it) the 'Knower of Great Peace' walked, and all the line of monastics after him...

After a brief tour of Shwedagon, we headed to IMC. There was a course ongoing, but Snow and Joah had gotten permission for us to do a one hour group sit on the platform outside the pagoda cells. After a strong sit, Sayagi U Ba Khin's (normally locked) cell was unexpectedly opened for viewing. We each sat briefly in the outer portion of the cell, just long enough to feel the coolness emanating from within and to pay respects.

The view of the inner pagoda area where Sayagyi U Ba Khin would sit, and where Webu Sayadaw meditated when he visited IMC, was specially and unexpectedly opened for pilgrims

A sample of the books by and about U Ba Khin that are available in the IMC bookstore

There was tremendous gratitude welling up from this visit - how special to be able to sit where it all (more recently) began. The radiating out of dhamma from this place has rippled through many lives across the world. May it continue for generations to come.

The powerful impression of the Shwedagon at night

And then... another unexpected surprise was in store - Sayagi U Ba Khin's son and his wife would be joining us for lunch... We were able to hear some stories from him, including how he took his first course. He recently wrote a book on his father - currently only in Burmese, but English translation is underway.

The post lunch afternoon flowed toward more mundane matters - a quick trip to Bogyoke market to pick up necessary items and/or gifts. And the evening wraped up with a group sit at Shwedagon. As it was Saturday night, the ring of candles at the base were amply lit. Dancing flames flickering in the breeze accompanied a walk through Shwedagon's Saturday crowds.

And so ends a day of unexpected surprises - what a start to a grand adventure!"

See here for Day 2 at Saya Thet Gyi's!

Scenes from Shwedagon Pagoda

"To the traveller approaching from the sea the pagoda is a vision of dazzling brilliancy and is visible long before the low-lying shores and distant mountains have evolved themselves from the waste of waters. If the approach is in the early morning when the sun has not yet risen his eyes will gaze into a misty void, grey and colourless, but with the first rays of approaching light a vision as of something celestial will be sharply silhouetted against the darkness, something which has fallen from the walls of heaven, and now floats a golden glory for the delight and astonishment of man. As the light increases this brilliancy becomes almost too dazzling for mortals to gaze upon. Finally the mists grow thinner and thinner, and then sail away, leaving the structure resting upon a mound of delicate green that rolls downward and away across the valley where stands the city of Rangoon, and where the Irrawaddy forces its way to the ocean." M.M. Shoemaker, Quaint Corners Of Ancient Empires (1899)