Insight Myanmar Podcast #3: Sayalay Piyadassii

Joah connects with Sayalay Piyadassii, a foreign meditator who took up robes in Myanmar, about growing up under the shadow of the old Soviet Union in Lithuania. Her initial enthusiasm for Christianity fizzled away at a young age, and her spirituality was later rekindled after taking several silent vipassana meditation retreats in the tradition of S.N. Goenka. She eventually began spending time in vipassana centers across Europe, particularly in the United Kingdom. That ultimately led her to Burma, where she ordained as a Buddhist nun in 2013, and she has remained in robes ever since. Sayalay Piyadassii is now a full-time student at Shan State Buddhist University in Taunggyi, a new school which was just started by Oxford Sayadaw.

You can listen to the full episode on your favorite podcast player by searching “Insight Myanmar,” or right off the web by going here.

Sayalay speaks openly about the early difficulties of her time as a monastic, during which she felt her spiritual life became unbalanced, with too much time spent in formal, sitting meditation. This ultimately led her to leaving to Burma and residing in a cave in Spain where she practiced mettā full time. When she felt she had regained the physical and spiritual balance she was seeking, she returned to Burma with a clearer picture of how to best construct her time in robes.

In the course of the talk, Sayalay also discusses several themes that have animated her time as a nun. One these was finding a balance between a structured form of meditation instruction on one hand, and being open and flexible to the moment on the other. She also contrasts her experience as a nun in Burmese Buddhist society with the preferential treatment received by monks, and her attitude towards this gender discrimination. Concerning her prior overemphasis on formal practice, Sayalay remarks on the importance of devoting greater amounts of time to study (pariyatti), and the deeper insights that can be derived solely from familiarity with the scriptures. Additionally, having spent so much time now in Myanmar, Sayalay shares how the culture of the country has benefited her practice, and how appreciative she has been overall. This, and much more! She closes by discussing her first year of studies here and the quality of the education.

After the talk, Zach Hessler joins in to discuss the overall themes from the interview. Joah remarks how inspiring it was to hear Sayalay discuss the series of transformations her spiritual journey took, preventing her from ever being “stuck” at any one stage. They note how little even Western meditators know about monasticism in general and the monastic’s life in specific, and how much training is needed for a monk or nun to feel even somewhat independent. Zach notes that the fruits of Sayalay’s practice can be heard clearly throughout the interview, and her joyous exclamation of loving the simple life was one of the overall highlights. They close by reviewing the nun discrimination that Sayalay has faced in Burmese society, and her recent enrollment in the Shan State Buddhist University in Taunggyi.

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"They were building a bathroom!"

Parami Sasana Yeiktha

Overseen by Sayadaw U Waseta, this monastery was founded in 2010. The Sayadaw was trained in the Sayadaw U Pandita tradition, and taught meditation overseas for years before deciding to settle into this mountain refuge, located just outside of the city. U Waseta follows the rigorous practice as characterizes that of his late teacher U Pandita, and as he speaks English, is willing to teach foreign practitioners who come to the Golden Land for Dhamma practice. Yogis can expect an 11-hour practice day, replete with walking and sitting meditation. Visitors to the monastery can also expect a very quite and secluded site, with sometimes the Sayadaw residing here entirely alone, although it enjoys a quite supportive local lay community. 

One American, Zack, ordained here as a Buddhist monk in May 2016, and he tells his following story below:

"When I arrived in Myanmar, I had no specific plans to cultivate Dhamma. I didn’t even know what the word meant! Though Buddhism had long piqued my curiosity, I wasn’t yet even a beginner when I arrived. 

Nonetheless, soon after I learned about the unique possibility, I decided to dive into the deep end and get ordained as a monk, if only for one week. For some reason, the opportunity just called to me. 

Rural Burmese monastic life is a far cry different from California layperson city-life. Though I was completely willing to understand and learn this different way of life, it doesn’t just come to you overnight.

One of the puzzles for me was bathing. Though I had read about outdoor bathing practices, I still wasn’t sure, e.g. what I should wear or take off, where and how discreetly I should scrub, whether it was okay to do this all with other (especially lay-) people around, or whether I should wait for privacy. It didn’t help that I was the only monk at the monastery aside from the Sayadaw! So I didn’t get to look to anyone for an example. 

I did the best I could for the first few days, deciding to clean more private areas in the confines of the toilet room and less sensitive areas outdoors. If unideal, this worked for me, and I felt clean. 

But on day four, curious if I was missing something, I asked the Sayadaw if this was an OK way to do things. “Oh, I forgot!” he exclaimed, “that you’re a Westerner and you shower indoors!” I assured him that I was okay bathing outdoors, and that I simply wanted to make sure I didn’t offend, but he still seemed distressed.

The next morning, a truck full of concrete, bricks, and other building supplies pulled in the driveway. A team of volunteer construction worked filed in from the neighboring town and began excavating for a foundation. The Sayadaw himself directed the team with a tape measure and a level. 

They were building a bathroom.

Of all the hospitality I’ve experienced in my life, this gesture stands unrivaled. And as my friend, who’s spent several years in the country, put it laughingly: “Yeah, that’s the kind of thing that happens in Burma.” 

How magical and impactful to be invited—and as an outsider and a beginner!—so warmly into this culture of support and generosity."

Chanmyay Yeiktha Meditation Center in Taunggyi

“Pain is observed not to make it go away, but to realize its true nature.” Chan Myay Yeiktha Sayadaw U Janaka

This center offers yogis a wonderful place to continue their practice of meditation according to the Chan Myay Yeiktha method. It is overseen by Sayadaw U Nyarnawara, and he warmly welcomes foreigners and can instruct them in English. Courses run all year long and one may come anytime one likes, and stay for as long as one wishes. Males stay together in one large building, while there are 24 separate bungalows available for women. Usually four women stay to a bungalow, but as many as ten may share suring Water Festival. There are also six separate buildings set aside for monks. However, there is no water heater, so meditators will have to manage with cold water showers. The center is five acres in size, and not far from the Technological University of Taunggyi. The northern area of the compound is shaded with a pleasant grove of trees, and much of the area east of the monastery is undeveloped, allowing for pleasant scenes and quiet space.

Details: Aye Tharyar Industrial Zone, Tel : 95 81 2127600, Email: chanmyayinform@gmail.com

"My first experience of learning and practicing with Sayadaw left a very deep impression. From the very first interview, I knew without a doubt that I had found my teacher. The recognition was indisputable. With Sayadaw, I had a sense of being coached and guided based on my actual experience, without presumption on what a yogi that has only attended three short retreats was capable of or limited to... my practice flourished in a very short period of time... I was being guided by one the most compassionate, understanding approachable and skillful teacher. What amazed me most was the consistent and immense metta, compassion and sympathetic joy that Sayadaw would infallibly exude throughout the duration of my practice with him.” Malaysian yogi

Mogok Monastery in Taunggyi

Although this Mogok branch is just north of downtown Taunggyi, its compound is slightly set back from the main road, allowing for a secluded atmosphere. Thus, its quiet and spaciousness make it feel further away from the downtown setting than it actually is, and it has many towering trees to its northern side. The center can be reached on foot through pleasant backstreets around the foothills of the mountain. A new dhamma hall was recently built that fits over 500 yogis, which is filled to capacity at Water Festival. It is quite spacious, light, airy. 

There are elaborate paintings and statues towards the front of the hall that one sees after paying respects to Buddha, the Mogok Sayadaw, and current monastery Sayadaw. The monastery has many new sitting cushions, each one inscribed with the name of its donor (they have different colors and patterns to better set them apart).
At present, foreigners are invited to register for Mogok courses but generally aren’t allowed to stay at the center other than when at a course. However, foreign meditators can use the facilities at any time for dhamma practice. With its convenient location and new hall being very conducive to practice, it’s a great place for one-day or half-day self-courses when you find yourself in this "City of Cherry Blossoms." 

Novices in Shan State use a local tractor to get around

Shwe Lan Excerpt: Shwe Phone Pwint Pagoda

The Meditator Guidebook to Burma is in its final stages! As the guide gets closer to publication, we will begin to share excerpts of what yogis may expect... some sneak previews of what is to come. Here is an excerpt from our Taunggyi section, describing one of the city's most famed pagodas:
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One of Taunggyi’s most famed pagodas, this one provides an impressive view of the city and surrounding hills, and on a clear day you can see clear across to Inle Lake. It’s also a very peaceful and (usually) quiet spot, with the higher winds tickling the pagoda bells and the cooler air making a nice place for a sit. You can come here by vehicle or motorbike, of if you’d like some exercise you can walk from downtown, which will take an hour or two depending on your stamina. Just walk to the east side of the city towards the mountain side, and eventually you’ll find the serpent-covered stairway just across the train tracks leading up. It’s a beautiful walk, and you can take a rest midway at Naga Monastery before reaching the peak. If you go in the morning you’ll see monks going and coming back from alms round. Just off the other side of the pagoda you can find Ruby Cave. Not far from here and clearly visible sits Toung Chun Zedi, a small pagoda on a steep jagged peak that is only accessibly by footpath. Several years ago it was struck by lightening, and it remains a place where few people visit.

Local residents pay their respects deep inside Ruby Cave in Taunggyi

Opportunity for Meritorious Deed

A monk pauses as an oxcart passes him on a road outside Webu Sayadaw Monastery in Ingyinbin

As a previous post indicated, work has begun on the 3^rd edition of the Burma meditation notes, and we are quite excited about how it is shaping up. 

We have seen that there are more and more foreign yogis coming to Burma for the purpose of developing more deeply in Dhamma, but unsure about how to get around and the opportunities which exist. To enhance their practice, yogis have also shown an interest in better understanding Burmese culture and monastic environments. 

A local neighborhood of Inthar villagers in Inle Lake, Shan State

Similarly, we have met a good amount of Burmese monks and lay people who sincerely wish to help these yogis and welcome them to their particular monastery, but do not know how to get the word out to extend this invitation. We hope that this upcoming guidebook will provide the link or meeting place for these two groups and will foster a mutually beneficial experience, as dedicated yogis get more exact information on specific sites and regions they can go to deepen their practice.

An entrance to a cave in Sagaing

For all those who are interested, we are announcing an opportunity for merit. The yogi guidebook project is dana-based and so no one connected to it will make any personal profit, other than the simple joy of participating in a meritorious deed. There are many ways to contribute, and opportunities available to all depending on one’s background, ability, and knowledge. 

Some people are finding ways to help that have not even yet visited Burma. Examples of ways other people have been contributing, as well as future needs, include:

The bed of a Sayadaw inside a Sagaing cave

• Editing
• Collecting and/or writing essays
• Artwork, including photography, sketches, formatting,
• Promotion and distribution
• Fact checking and background work on internet
• Providing and/or soliciting on-the-ground information
• Financial donations to cover project needs
• Etc.

If you are interested in contributing in any of the above (or additional) ways and sharing in the merit of assisting foreign yogis in Burma, contact us at burmadhamma@gmail  

Deep inside a meditation cave high up on a mountain in the Shan town of Taungyi