Asaygan Fort

By 1850, King Mindon began to build fortifications along the Ayeyarwaddy River to prepare for the expected skirmishes to come with British troops. In 1885, three forts were built in a triangle in attempt to trap oncoming British soldiers, and were considered the last line of defense before the royal capital of Mandalay. Asaygan was one of these three, designed in the shape of a semi-circle, with walls nine feet high with holes for rifle fire (except for the south-facing wall). In the end, however, the forts were never used because the King and Parliament ordered its troops not to resist when the British did eventually come; indeed, when the advancing Colonel White arrived to disarm the populace, he was given a dinner by the newly surrendered Burmese commander. Sir Herbert White writes in A Civil Servant in Burma, “The fall of Mandalay had been so sudden that it had not yet been realized in rural places, and the forces of opposition had not yet been organized. Very soon the turmoil began. It was then long before officers were able to travel without escort in Upper Burma.”

The inexorable march of tropical greenery has invaded even the innermost fortifications, but amidst this one can find some old cannons and the original walls. On the Sagaing side there are tombstones of British soldiers who died in some minor skirmishes in 1885 in spite of the overall peaceful surrender of Burmese forces.

Obviously, this fort is not really related to Buddhist practice in any way. So unless one is a history buff, it may not be worth the detour, and there are certainly no conducive sites for a sitting. But if one does go, the crows can be quite bad here during the cool season, so a laser is recommended. Admission to the fort is free.

Monywa Crows

A Monywa business uses two green lasers to keep the crows away

In Monywa, some businesses must maintain high-powered lasers as the one seen in this photo, to keep away the crows that are known to swarm in great numbers. This business photographed above shows two such green lasers that keep the crows at bay, and apparently must be shone even at nighttime. In older days, the method of choice were slingshots, and indeed, these are still commonly found throughout the Burmese countryside. Unfortunately, it has been—and still is—considered a boyhood rite of passage in Burma to shoot crows with a slingshot. Those not so skillful are taunted by being called “maymisa,” or “effeminate.”

However, the modern innovation of lasers provide a humanitarian alternative that is highly effective in moving the crows along while at the same time having the advantage of being entirely harmless and without injury. Such a method has been increasingly advocated by various progressive groups in Burma, such as European monks, expat authors, and even visiting doctors to the country residing in Japan. Surprisingly, one group that has not yet supported the initiative have been local tour guides.

The problem of cows is apparently not a new problem in Burma, as Julius Smith wrote about his experiences in 1890 in Ten Years In Burma: “We were wakened early… by the harsh cawing of a myriad of crows, which roost in the shade-trees of the public streets and private yards. We came afterwards to know these annoying pests that swarm over Rangoon all day long, as a tribe of thieves full of all cunning and audacity. The first exhibition of their pilfering given us, was that first morning when the early tea and toast… was passed into our room and placed in reach of the children. The crows had been perched on the window-sill before this, restlessly watching us within the room. But on our turning for a moment from the tray on which the toast was placed, the crows swooped upon it, and carried it off out of the window. This is but a sample of the audacious annoyance suffered from their beaks and claws continually. They are in country places also, but not so plentifully as here in the cities, where they literally swarm. Were it to our purpose we could write pages of these petty and cunning robberies of which they are guilty.”

Indeed, there is even an ancient Burmese proverb touching upon this nuisance that goes Tin daw paya, sad aw shwe gyi and refers to an offering “given to a Buddha, snatched by a crow.” And, it was an issue even in the Buddha's day, when he stipulated that one was allowed to be ordained as a novice so long as the boy was old enough "to keep crows away from his alms bowl."

Honoring one who is worthy of honor

The Meditator Guidebook to Burma is in its final stages! As the guide gets closer to publication, we will begin to share excerpts of what yogis may expect... some sneak previews of what is to come. Here is an excerpt from the "Monastic Life" chapter on how to pay respect to monks:
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"Finding and acknowledging one who is worthy of honor is considered a highly important quality, and many Burmese proverbs attest to this. One states thiq tiq pin kaun, hngeq tiq thoun ko ya, meaning “if a single tree is large enough, ten thousand crows can rest on it." The underlying meaning is that if an individual is developed enough, countless people can rely on him or her. Another proverb states thiq pin auoq gyo they nain, lu aouq gyo ma they nain, and can be translated literally as “one who goes under an old tree can be killed, but one who goes under a great person cannot,” or to say figuratively, “being humble before a wise person will not kill you.”

Having finished offering her food, Burmese woman pays respects as a monk passes on alms round